The stiletto heel of Italy’s boot is the region of Puglia, a popular vacation locale for its endless sunshine, wild Adriatic beaches and adorable homes known as trulli, which look like sugar jars dotting the green plains. The cuisine is also world class, but from a wine standpoint, it is among Italy’s least memorable regions, with a lot of anonymous rosato and flat, high-alcohol reds dominating the scene.
Which is what makes a fine Nero di Troia so startling: like Sicily’s Frappato, it takes in all that sun and yet remains featherweight, playful and fresh. Primitivo? Negroamaro? If I am being honest, they’ve rarely made me feel anything but fatigued.
Polvanera La Marchesana’s version of Nero di Troia recalls raspberries with a raspy voice and hits the same sweet spot as a light Pinot Noir. Its subtle structure carries a nice refinement, especially for a sub $20 wine. In fact, that might be the biggest surprise of all in this bottle: not that hot-and-dry Puglia is capable of red-wine finesse, but that you still can get red-wine finesse at that price tier at all.
I reviewed the 2022 earlier in the year while assembling the book. A newer vintage, the 2023, is out now with a new label that is black. Keep your eyes open for it.
2022 Polvanera “La Marchesana” Nero di Troia Puglia
Puglia IGT (Puglia )
Grapes: Nero di Troia (100%)
Alcohol: 14.5%
Opinion: ★★★★ 3/4 (out of five)
Food-friendliness: Impeccable
Value: Exceptional
A beginner might like … the all-purpose nature of this wine’s flexibility matched with an affordable price. Date night dinner at home? Chillable red for patio time? Thanksgiving workhorse? Tuesday? Wednesday? Thursday? It gets it done.
A wine obsessive might like … sabotaging a fine wine tasting with this entrance from Puglia. I’ve had this wine in a lineup with aged Taurasi and other Southern Italian gems, only to see it emerge as many people’s favorite wine of the night.
100 Wines to Admire from Italy
This wine is one of 100 Wines to Admire featured in my new book, Opening a Bottle: Italy. Get your copy to see which other 99 wines I selected as the most compelling I’ve ever encountered in Italy.
