Pietroso

Why Pietroso is Essential

My favorite kind of discovery is this: the simplest wineries producing the most brilliant of wines.

In this instance, I do not mean “simple” as a slight at all. There is a real genius behind doing things simply and doing them well. It takes years of experience, a shrew sense for timing, an impeccable palate and most of all, endless dedication. But when everything aligns, as it does at Pietroso, the results are unforgettable. Harmony is the only word for it.

Gianni and Andrea Pignattai, the father-son duo behind this Montalcino winery, state their case simply: “Cultivate the best grapes, add nothing, intervene as little as possible.” Gianni said this when I asked about his philosophy, and then — with a facial expression only an Italian can pull off — distended the corners of his lips and shrugged, as if to add I wish I had more to say, but that is really it.

What is so impressive to me about Pietroso is the consistency of finesse. Brunello di Montalcino is a burly wine whose power is undeniable. To produce something with the purity of that character, yet allow it to speak with a lilt rather than a shout, underscores the importance of raw ingredients. Pietroso’s vineyards (in the esteemed Montosoli, as well as Colombiao, Fornello, Petroso and Pietroso) all benefit from optimal ripening that years ago was a struggle. Gianni feels that the last several vintages, which are undeniably warmer, have been beneficial to his family’s vines. Alcohol and concentration, the two things that can really muddle a Brunello, have yet to be an issue.

In the cellar, the family uses large Slavonian oak casks for a steady maturation of the wine. In comparison tastings, Pietroso’s wines regularly strike me for their seamless presentation and graceful display of flavor. This is Italian wine at its apex.

Wines to Seek Out

The defining trait of Pietroso’s style of red wines is either their high elevation or north-facing aspect, which imbues the wines with a freshness and stately sense of direction. All of the grapes at Pietroso are harvested by hand, and fermentation is initiated entirely by indigenous yeast. Plots are fermented separately in either stainless steel or oak tini (sometimes both), then blended and aged in 30hL Slavonian oak barrels. Sulfur is used sparingly and only when the wines are moved and bottled.

Pietroso Rosso di Montalcino

I included this wine in my book Opening a Bottle: Italy as one of the nation’s 100 Wines to Admire, although I could have easily included the Brunello instead. It is the kind of wine that makes one ask “why are there not more wines like this coming from Montalcino?” It stands to reason that producers in the area will be putting forward more easy-drinking yet complex “entry level” wines from this category, but for now, Pietroso has the best example. It’s savory, faintly smoky, yet pulls you in on an enticing wave of silky red fruits and fine-grained tannin.

It is a rather unusual fact that half of Pietroso’s annual production is devoted to this Rosso di Montalcino. Most estates in the area produce far more Brunello.

Pietroso Brunello di Montalcino

Pietroso’s standard-bearer is the annual Brunello di Montalcino, which is usually a blend from the plots of Pietroso, Colombaiolo and Fornello. To the Pignattai family, this is their vision of the region: a little of this zone, and a little of that zone to complete a holistic portrait of Montalcino’s beauty in the glass. This is often the wine that best demonstrates the knife’s edge of balance that defines Pietroso’s style. It is at once intense yet forgiving to the taster, which creates a wonderful tension between power and finesse.

Pietroso Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

While you will need at least 10 years of aging to open the chamber of secrets for most Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wines, Pietroso’s version usually debuts in eager and generous form. Mainly sourced from the high-altitude Fornello zone (with a small percentage from the home-base vineyard of Pietroso), this wine offers a direct sense of elegance that I find very appealing. I also get the impression that for Gianni and Andrea, feeling is as important to their winemaking as technical know-how — a beautiful thing to discover in a category of wine often defined more by ambition than emotion.