Twenty-five years ago, it was unheard of to convert to biodynamics in a place as wet, cold and mass-produced as Champagne. In fact, it is still very rare, as the climatic conditions simply leave little margin for error, making the intensive discipline of biodynamics too risky for many. Yet that is just the leap of faith grower-producer Franck Pascal made at his small, Baslieux-Sous-Châtillon estate, and by 2005 he became the first Champagne vigneron to earn Biodyvin certification.
Situated in the Marne Valley, where Pinot Meunier reigns, Pascal’s vineyards have a lot to demonstrate in the bottle. For one, the Marne Valley is very cold, which is why the cold-resistant Meunier has such a strong foothold here. One might think of racy, linear wines when hearing that, but Meunier naturally offers a little more flesh on the palate than Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. If the ethos of the grower movement is to elevate the nexus of terroir and craft, and give us new lenses through which to view Champagne, then a true grower like Pascal — independent, meticulous, and obsessive in the vineyard — ought to be our gateway to a place like the Marne.
In this cuvée below, Meunier accounts for more than 2/3 of the blend. The wine is deep and profound thanks to Meunier’s flesh and four years of lees aging, but it also feels brisk as it quick-steps across the palate, suggestive of its cold-climate origins.
NV Franck Pascal “Fluence” Champagne Brut Nature
Champagne AOC (Champagne )
Grapes: Pinot Meunier (69%), Chardonnay (31%)
Alcohol: 12.5%
Opinion: ★★★★ 3/4 (out of five)
Food-friendliness: Impeccable
Value: As Expected
A beginner might like … the zesty character of this wine, which comes across differently than the citric tang of standard blanc de blanc. Here, it feels more like biting into a fresh strawberry in how it dashes across the palate. This, combined with the brioche-like autolytic character from the lees aging, gives this wines a unique voice.
A wine obsessive might like … diving into the exact nature of Franck Pascal’s wines, even on this, his entry-level wine. There is a noticeable difference to the acidity’s character here, which if I had to guess, is likely the expression of Pinot Meunier from the Marne Valley.
Note: This wine was provided as a sample by Banville Wine Merchants. Learn more about our editorial policy.
