One of the wines I sourced for my now-DOA First-Taste Guide on Grower Champagne (read the column on this term) was from noted Troyes “grower,” Jacques Lassaigne. Grower is in quotes because — as I found out after I opened the bottle and studied the fine print on the label — he is registered as a négociant. Given the extremely high degree of craft and personality in this wine, Lassaigne proves the larger point that the “grower” phrase only gets us so far. The magic isn’t in the fact that he grew the grapes, it is in what he did with them.
That said, Lassaigne’s winery is small production, and he operates with an artisan’s mindset, which makes all the difference. It is just that he has opted for the versatility of being registered as a négociant, which makes a great deal of sense given the price of land and production in today’s wine economy, as well as the roulette wheel of climate change’s whims on each vintage.
For an entry-level wine, such as Lassaigne’s “Les Vignes de Montgueux” featured below, it makes sense to have some (or all) of that fruit come from trusted grower partners just to ensure the wine makes it to market. One hail storm, one frosty night in late April, and poof! … a year’s worth of sales is squandered.
This wine is absolutely beguiling, and I listed it as the No. 7 wine of 2024 under the header “the artisan for all occasions” in this year’s dream mixed case.
NV Jacques Lassaigne “Les Vignes de Montgueux” Champagne Blanc de Blanc Extra Brut
Champagne AOC (Champagne )
Grapes: Chardonnay (100%)
Alcohol: 12%
Opinion: ★★★★★ (out of five)
Food-friendliness: Impeccable
Value: As Expected
A beginner might like … the insanity of this wine. If ever there was a champagne to venture off into wild and unusual terrain without losing its identity as champagne, this is it. It’s mineral, it’s creamy, and it recalls tangerines, violets and hazelnuts in all the right ways.
A wine obsessive might like … the surprisingly sharp and momentous sensations on the palate, which likely come from the nine different vineyards around Montgueux where this wine is sourced. For good reason, Montgueux is legendary for Chardonnay: the limestone beneath fosters this intensity to dramatic effect, but only a supremely talented winemaker can preserve this identity after the traditional method process.
Note: This wine was purchased with funds raised by subscribers like you.
