Want to know a secret? Collio Bianco. There, that’s the secret.
As I traveled from winery to winery with two other writers in the build-up to Collio Evolution, the Collio Bianco wines — almost always poured last — were a little like an after-thought. Friulano is clearly the regional emblem, while Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla are local protagonists. The international varieties? They are still rocking the pop charts. What else this there?
Oh yeah, here is the blend we do with them. What do you think?
What do we think? We love them!
Within those perimeters, two schools of thought have emerged: blend only native white grapes, or let the international varieties have their say.
In our group, sommelier and presenter Matt Steeves was particularly enthusiastic, to the point that we started joking about a Collio Bianco Fan Club, with him as President For Life.
The truth is that the blended white wines from Collio are vitally important for these wineries. The regulations are straightforward: any proportion of the region’s multitude of white grapes with restrictions only on Gewürztraminer and Müller-Thurgau (maximum 15% combined). Terroir is still at play, but these wines are largely about craft and making pivotal decisions that make a statement of purpose for each estate. They are often the region’s most intense and textural wines, and for some producers, they are the most interesting.
Within those perimeters, two schools of thought have emerged: blend only native white grapes (usually Friulano, Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana), or let the international varieties have their say. There is usually a backbone of Friulano because it provides a wonderful chord of acidity from which the organoleptic qualities of the other grapes can attach themselves to. Ribolla Gialla lends a wonderful nut-driven character, while Malvasia infuses power. Pinot Grigio and Pinot Bianco can add texture and fruit, while Sauvignon lends the biggest amount of personality, and can be dominant if the producer isn’t careful. In ample amount, it drowns out its partners; in the right proportion, it seasons and heightens them.
Sometimes, producers will make one blend of only local grapes, and another blend with some international grapes involved.
During my time in Collio, these five Collio Bianco stood out the most.
Most Stunning: 2019 Gradis’ciutta Collio Bianco Riserva
A blend of Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia hailing from two different vineyards on Monte Calvario and Ruttars, this magnificent dry white blend from Gradis’ciutta was notable for its intensity of flavor. It just kept coming and coming in inexhaustible waves that recalled red fruit, citrus, roses and honeycomb-like edges, with a persistence that was silky and clean. Some of the flavors reminded me of aged Alsatian wines, particularly Pinot Gris, but the nature of its silkiness rooted it in the Collio. Aged for one year in stainless steel and one year in oak, then given ample bottle age before release, this durable wine was tasting at its peak some six years after vintage.
Best All-International Blend: 2022 Gradis’ciutta “Bràtinis” Collio Bianco
Gradis’ciutta’s second Collio Bianco, called “Bràtinis,” is entirely made of international varieties: Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. And while it carries a vanity name (and the long-aged Riserva does not), it is clearly the fresher, shorter-term white blend in their portfolio.
Nonetheless, it is a beautiful, show-stopping wine with a tropical flower aroma that recalled personal memories of plumeria blossoms in Hawaii. Crisp pineapple and stone fruit flavors lend an ampleness to the wine’s body, while zingy citrus leads the way to the finish. This is a superb wine.
Most Age-Worthy: 2024 Raccaro Collio Bianco
The Raccaro family winery makes some of the most age-worthy white wines in Collio, if not in all of Italy. But their production is small, only 34,000 bottles per year on average. Finding one of their bottles is a treasure hunt.
Their structured Collio Bianco beautifully demonstrates the Adriatic-facing terroir of southern Collio, with an almost oily texture to its body that surprises with a crisp minerality on the finish. Comprised of Tocai Friulano, Malvasia and Sauvignon Blanc, its subtle aromas are highlighted by peach, bell pepper, mint and ample stoniness.
Most Versatile: 2021 Damijan Podversic “Kaplja” Collio Bianco
I recently outlined why “Kaplja” is a personal favorite of mine in this new profile on its winemaker, Tamara Podversic. The 2021 draws its graceful aromas and pristine texture from an extended two- to three-month maceration of Tocai Friulano, Malvasia and Chardonnay. Given Chardonnay’s rather neutral profile, this feels like a wine from the “local grapes camp,” but that esteemed grape seems to frame everything nicely with its signature body. This is such a beautiful wine, with a generosity of flavor: lemon zest, apple, violets, baking spice touches. Its persistence seems to know no bounds, and makes it highly versatile to context and food pairings.
Best Natural Wine Style: 2022 Paraschos “Ponka” Collio Bianco
Evangelos Paraschos and his sons Alexis and Jannis reside more on the natural wine side of the spectrum in Collio, opting to avoid SO2 throughout their winemaking. During an estate visit, the wine that resonated with me most was this field blend from the iconic Slatnik vineyard called “Ponka,” from the 2022 vintage. It was aromatically delicate with whispers of golden apple, honeycomb and white tea, with softer acidity than most Collio Bianco wines. Stylistically it is in another orbit from, say, Gradis’ciutta’s Collio Bianco Riserva. But both wines carry a signature persistence that defines this area’s best wines. Total production at the winery is also quite small: around 25,000 bottles.
Note: I was invited to attend the Collio Evolution as a member of the media (the only American journalist in attendance). My travel and accommodations to and from Venice and Collio were covered. Learn more about our editorial policy.
