Château Simone

Why Château Simone is Essential

French fine wine is synonymous with terroir, the notion that the land and climate leave their fingerprints on a wine. But for all the talk of terroir, it is interesting to note just how few French wines truly deliver on the promise, let alone blended French wines, and — frankly — wines from the South of France, where increasing temperatures often leave wines blown out with alcohol.

But Château Simone is different. Very different. Located just southeast of Aix-en-Provence, one would expect that the warmth of Provence would foster a heavy-hitting Grenache and a laser-focused, carnation-pale rosé. But instead, the estate's unique microclimate and trend-defying winemaking style, lend us an entirely different story in the glass.

Understanding the wines is fairly straightforward. There is a one of each: a red, a white and a rosé, as well as two grand vins, a blanc and rosé. Each wine is a blend, with the two blanc being most heavily focused on a single variety, Clairette, at 80%. But there is a subtlety and gentleness in the glass that I have never associated with southern France, and much of that comes from the fact that the vineyards face north and are persistently brushed by the wind. A nearby forest preserve — owned and managed by Château Simone — increases the biodiversity and also keeps ambient temperatures cool relative to the surrounding Côtes de Provence. Lastly, a majority of the vines are exceedingly old, lending each element of the blend noteworthy complexity.

These elements alone would be reason enough to include Château Simone on a list of France's most idiosyncratic wine estates. But it is the Rougier family's centuries-old commitment to hands-on winemaking practices that round out the picture and lend the wines an added sense of grace. When I asked the family if there were any changes they've made to recent vintages, they simply replied "One doesn’t change a method that has brought such beautiful fruits. On the contrary, our concern is to stay as close as we can to the practices that forged the character and renown of Château Simone wines."

This is the Provence of old. No "yacht wines" to be found. Just old-vine, old-school elegance.

Wines to Seek Out

Château Simon's wines fall under the appellation of Palette, which covers the vineyards of this small microclimate southeast of Aix-en-Provence. Palette is almost entirely associated with the estate, as Château Simone's reputation for quality is so singular, but also, it produces roughly half of the AOC's wine. According to their U.S. importer, that's still only 30,000 bottles per year, which underscores the pocket-sized quality of this unique place.

Château Simone Palette Blanc

Château Simone's most varietal focused cuvée is undoubtedly the blanc, which is comprised of 80% Clairette with smatterings of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc and Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, which are co-fermented together for two weeks. The Clairette vines are noteworthy for their age: most are between 50 and 100 years old. The resulting wine is rich, textural and a downright opulent experience to sip, with lovely tones reminding me of orange peel, ripe banana, vanilla bean, resin and hazelnuts. If that sounds like dessert, know this: the wine is dry as a bone, and its juiciness and sharp acidity on the palate keep it fresh and compelling. A rare white wine that is best enjoyed with five years of age — better yet, seven to 10.

Château Simone Palette Rouge

The dichotomy at play with this red blend is fascinating: on the one hand, it has the unmistakable strawberry-like fruit tones of a Grenache-centric blend, which it is. But one of the most prominent features of such a cuvée is its strength and ferocity. Instead of pumping iron, the Château Simone Palette Rouge seems to be sitting in an Adirondack chair taking in the scenery. It's remarkably amiable, but with the silky tannins and forward-reaching momentum to stay compelling from first sip to last drop.

New tasting impressions on the Palette Rosé coming soon.