Poggio di Sotto

Why Poggio di Sotto is Essential

What do you expect from a bottle that has this backstory?

A shipping tycoon calls it quits in order to start a Tuscan winery in Montalcino. He takes all the right steps, from carefully choosing the ideal property, to working with soil scientists to better understand where to plant, to carefully selecting Sangiovese clones and rootstocks that would serve as a genetic treasure trove for the next generation. He even employs the legendary Giulio Gambelli — a staunch traditionalist and the shepherd of minimal-intervention winemaking throughout the 20th century — to consult on winemaking. The tycoon builds a cult-like status for his wines through the 1990s and 2000s, and emerges as one of the most celebrated brands in Italy.

Then, 20 years after the debut of the first vintage, said tycoon — Piero Palmucci — sells the estate to another Italian family whose multi-estate portfolio looks like a conglomerate empire by comparison.

Would you expect a soulful wine? One articulate of terroir, craft and personality?

Or would you expect something more ambitious, brash and ultimately overpriced?

Having seen similar stories play out across the world of wine, I would certainly expect the latter, but that's not what we have in Poggio di Sotto — easily the most steady and reliable producer of authentic Brunello di Montalcino that I have come across. It is a testament to the Tipa Bertarelli family and their ColleMassari Group that they've been able to preserve the Poggio di Sotto spirit for more than a decade now, all without losing the vision originally set forth by Palmucci. Uncorking any of the Poggio di Sotto wines feels like an event worth cherishing.

Wines to Seek Out

If Poggio di Sotto has a key differentiator, it would be the genetic diversity of its Brunello vineyards. Not only does this lead to more resiliency in the face of climate change and maladies, it also seems to lend more dimension to the wines in the glass. I am always amazed by their complexity.

Poggio di Sotto Rosso di Montalcino

A lovely and complex expression of Montalcino's entry-level wine, Poggio di Sotto's Rosso di Montalcino often serves up strawberries, sweet cherry and leather. However, in hotter vintages, the sensations from this wine tend to swell and require aeration as if it were a Brunello. This wine is also priced like a Brunello, and for that reason, it is not my favorite Rosso di Montalcino to reach for — this is a wine that should be fun, delicious and reasonable. Otherwise, just buy a Brunello. Nonetheless, if offered a glass, take it. It is a beautiful wine.

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino

A quintessential Brunello di Montalcino, and one I would recommend as a first taste to a newcomer. It's often potent, but always complex with numerous layers of fruit, savory elements, leather, spice and iron. Perhaps what I appreciate most, however, is the measured tannins that always come through. This is a wine to celebrate on a second day, when its tertiary characteristics often strike a minty chord. As is typical in Montalcino (but upside-down with the rest of the wine world), this Brunello di Montalcino has twice the production numbers as the entry-level Rosso di Montalcino.

Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

Brunello di Montalcino Riserva can at times be so intense and structured, you wonder when it'll ever come around and be forthcoming. Yet Poggio di Sotto's Brunello di Montalcino Riserva feels like a wave of assurance on that promising future. You will want to hold on to a new release for at least five years (10 or more would be better), yet if you must crack into it, the rewards are there. This is a wine predicated on the purity of Brunello di Montalcino, and it shines as such.