Suavia

Why Suavia is Essential

The emergence of Soave as a source of some of Italy's finest white wines is due in part to families like the Tessaris of Suavia. While there are still numerous examples of forgettable wine bearing the Soave DOC name on the label, producers like Suavia (as well as Inama and Prà) have educated anyone who is paying attention that the volcanic soil of the region can have an incredible alchemy with Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave. Others are following their lead, which makes this region one to watch.

Like so many of our Essential Winemakers, Suavia is a family affair. Led by three sisters — Meri, Valentina, and Alessandra — the estate produces several wines focused on their origins, which is in the heart of the Soave Classico zone where a special volcanic soil lends a precision and focus to the texture to each wine. The Monte Carbonare best demonstrates this with its lean and taut acidity and exuberant tones, but even the entry-level Soave Classico (one of the best values in all of Italian wine) will give you a firm idea on why Soave's potential places it firmly in the conversation.

Wines to Seek Out

Don't let the screw cap on these bottles fool you: the Tessari family deliberately uses these closures to avoid cork-borne flaws in their wines. They are also adamant that the enclosure can allow for enough microoxygenation for proper aging. I haven't tasted any older vintages, but these wines clearly have the elements to mature nicely over a 10-year period and provide ample thrills.

Suavia Soave Classico

In 2023, this wine was selected for my annual "magic mixed case" as one of the Top 12 Wines of the year. Much of that has to do with its price-to-quality ratio. Given its refinement and precision, this wine has no business being sold for $16, but that's where you can find it, so stock up.

Suavia "Monte Carbonare" Soave Classico

This forthcoming rendition of Soave's most prominent terroir reveals a lovely dimension of peach-like fruit and tangerine citrus, followed by a mineral-saline note that feels borne from the sea. An intense wine with superb length, its finish feels more tropical than most, making it an indelible Soave to cherish.

Suavia "Massifitti" Veronese

Trebbiano di Soave is one and the same as Verdicchio. When it comes from the volcanic soil of the Soave region, it takes on sharper edges and quicker momentum across the palate. "Massifitti" is amazing: silky, radiant and popping with citrus and herbal-like spice. Chablis lovers will find many familiar harmonies in this wine: momentous acidity, persistence on the finish, and most notably, minerality. This is Suavia's most compelling wine, and perhaps the most compelling white wine in all of Veneto.