Driving up the SS38 highway from Lake Como to Sondrio, I couldn’t help but feel a little bit at home. There were shades of my native Rocky Mountains in this tucked-away corner of Italy. True, there were scores of campanile scattered on the hillsides, and yes, Colorado’s streams are not quite the same glacial, aquamarine color as the Adda River. But there was a quality to the granite mountains and the alpine light illuminating my way … I had a strong sensation of familiarity in a place I’d never been.
Over the past two years, my interest in Valtellina’s wines has grown quite intense. Seeing the vineyards up close had become a personal mission of mine, and here I finally was, awe-struck.
From Morbegno through Tirano, they appear as short, stubby rows of vine draping the lower slopes of the Alps like a chaotic quilt. Some look nearly vertical, others seem wild and unkempt, yet all of them caress the contours of the Alps as though they are holding on for dear life.
Nearly 2,500 kilometers of stone walls terrace these mountains. Let that sink in: 2,500 kilometers. In other words, the distance from Denver to Philadelphia. Or twice the length of Italy. During the Roman times, residents of the valley broke rocks on the south-facing slopes to form the walls. Meanwhile, sand was hauled uphill from the river to backfill the terraces, and multiple crops were grown between the vineyard rows. This proved to be the only way agriculture could thrive in this alpine valley. Today, the terraces are used mostly for viticulture.
Multiple views of the Rocca de Piro vineyard and the ARPEPE winery. ©Kevin Day/Opening a BottleYet who has heard of Valtellina and its wines outside the realm of aficionados, sommeliers and the residents of Lombardy? Despite the area’s extensive history and its stunning beauty, I suspect not many.
That should change. At their most basic, Valtellina Superiore wines are rustic yet food-friendly, pleasant and approachable. At their apex, they walk a tightrope between Gevrey-Chambertin and Barbaresco. From my experience, that apex is ARPEPE.
Explore This & Other Stories
ARPEPE’s story is profiled in my new book, Opening a Bottle: Italy, which is now available in hardcover from BookBaby and via E-book on openingabottle.com.
The book includes several new stories and 100 Wines to Admire from across Italy. Get your copy today!
Tasting Report: ARPEPE Wines, October 2017
For part 2 of this story, learn about the unique approach to winemaking at ARPEPE and read notes from the most thrilling wine tasting of my entire career.
Essential Winemakers of Italy
ARPEPE is one of our Essential Winemakers of Italy. Learn why, and discover other exceptional Italian winemakers via the link below.
Great post, great photos. Love those wines. Nicest people too.
Thank you, Jeremy. It was an incredible visit, which usually means the story that follows is difficult to write! Certainly the case here…had to break it into two chunks.
Fantastic perspective on my favorite wine region and a top producer. Thanks for sharing your experience in Valtellina!