Before we make a big deal out of a wine and food pairing, let’s make a note that pairings are mostly personal. We can all agree on some of them, but the more specific we get, the more problematic these generalizations become. However, as you consider what to smoke for the Fourth of July (food, that is), consider this: the wines from Southern Italy’s Aglianico grape ought to be by your side. This is one we can all agree on.
Think of how a smoked brisket needs several hours to tenderize and build flavor. Aglianico is the same way, although rather than softening the connective tissue of muscle, the slow ripening is taming the grape’s ferocious tannins and raging acidity.
Thick-skinned and late-ripening, this grape requires a long ripening season to really show its stuff. Think of how a smoked brisket needs several hours to tenderize and build flavor. Aglianico is the same way, although rather than softening the connective tissue of muscle, the slow ripening is taming the grape’s ferocious tannins and raging acidity.
Now, that’s not why this wine works well with barbecues and whatever you just threw on your Big Green Egg. It is just a nice parallel to think about when you are trying to keep the lid on the smoker closed. (A watched pot never boils. It’ll get there!)
Aglianico shines because (a) its savory flavors recall iron and resinous herbs, and (b) its combination of compact tannins and slice-and-dice acidity cleanse and compliment the palate beautifully.
Aglianico finds its form in a handful of appellations you ought to memorize by name: the Aglianico del Vulture DOCG and the Aglianico del Taburno DOCG would be two of them, but the captain of Team Aglianico is the Taurasi DOCG. Situated in central Campania about an hour’s drive east of Naples, Taurasi provides Aglianico with a geological tapestry underground — clay, limestone and sandstone interspersed with volcanic elements – and this, along with high elevation which fosters that long ripening season, gives us a wildly expressive version of the grape.
This wine — by one of the larger Campania wineries, Feudi di San Gregorio — is a classic example of Aglianico from Taurasi. Its bold and intense, with just a bit of savage character to make it unmistakably Italian. Read on for my notes, and keep the smoker lid closed.
2016 Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi
Taurasi DOCG (Campania)
Grapes: Aglianico (100%)
Alcohol: 14%
Opinion: ★★★★ 3/4 (out of five)
Food-friendliness: Versatile
Value: As expected
A beginner might like … the newness of Aglianico, for it does not taste like any red wine you’re likely familiar with. This is not from the same orbit as Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir. Nope: it is darker, meatier and more citric. There is a wild, savage quality to Aglianico that seems to get wilder in Taurasi, the enclave of Southern Italy’s Campania where this wine comes from. But with Feudi di San Gregorio’s entry-level version, it never veers off the cliff.
A wine obsessive might like … introducing a newbie to Aglianico via this wine. To carry that summer barbecue scenario a bit further, I’m guessing many of your guests follow exactly zero sommeliers on Instagram. For that crowd, Aglianico can be startling, particularly the versions that us wine geeks like to celebrate, like those from Luigi Tecce. Feudi di San Gregorio’s Taurasi brilliantly balances the savage character of Aglianico without sacrificing mass appeal. The tannins are dialed in, the acidity is enticing, and there is just enough fruit to keep people happy.
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Note: This wine was provided as a sample by Feudi di San Gregorio’s U.S. press office. Learn more about our sample policy.
