Damiano Ciolli

Why Damiano Ciolli is Essential

Wedged in between the colossus of Tuscany and volcanic Campania on the Italian wine map, Lazio has, in many ways, a few similarities to each. And yet, the region is also painting with its own spectrum of colors these days. Like its neighbors, mass-produced bulk wine continues to push the wine economy, but a band of independent, quality-minded winemakers are the ones who are really driving the cart forward.

Demonstrating this to full effect is Damiano Ciolli, an artisan winemaker in Olevano Romano, who — together with his enologist partner and spouse, Letizia Rocchi — is making some of Central Italy's most electrifying red wines. Production is quite small (that's part of the charm) but the two Cesanese d'Affile-based wines have an enticing electricity to them that will prevent you from ignoring Lazio much longer.

Ciolli and Rocchi are practicing organic and biodynamic, which has been a crucial and necessary transition for the soil of their vineyards after the post-war period saw an over-reliance on chemical-based treatments. And what soil they have! Mocha-colored and appearing like coffee grounds under a bed of grass, herbs and fava beans, the rich soil's volcanic nature runs very deep. Coaxing that unique character from the wines requires a light touch in the cellar, which Ciolli has seemingly perfected with a mix of concrete vats and large botti casks for fermentation of the Silene and Cirsium wines, respectively.

Wines to Seek Out

Damiano Ciolli "Botte Ventidue" Vino Bianco Lazio

The lone non-Cesanese wine in the Ciolli lineup is a bianco blend of 70% Trebbiano Verde (also known as Trebbiano Toscana) and 30% Ottenese. It ferments in large oak cask and ultimately spends 11 months in contact with the lees, yielding a wildly playful wine reminiscent of peaches and yellow flowers.

Damiano Ciolli "Silene" Olevano Romano Cesanese

A blend of three different vineyard plots of Cesanese d'Affile, "Silene" goes all-in on the grape's naturally refreshing qualities, with a nice dose of refinement and complexity, too. You might detect a sour plum fruit note, or it may seem more like sweet pomegranate, depending on the vintage, but Cesanese d'Affile's energetic spice and lovely violet aromatics will be there no matter what. "Silene" is a great culinary wine with a high amount of versatility.

Damiano Ciolli "Cirsium" Olevano Romano Cesanese Riserva

"Cirsium" is the yin to "Silene's" yang. This is Cesanese d'Affile in a more structured, mysterious and complex form. Sourced from older vines (some of which date back to the 1950s), Ciolli's top red wine is granted one year in oak botti, one year in cement, and another year in bottle. As noted in this profile, there are shades of every season in this wine (look for spring’s flowers, summer’s fruit, autumn’s earthiness, winter’s briskness). I also particularly enjoyed the sleek and sneaky tannins that seem to hold the whole wine together without you even noticing them.