I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna

Why I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna is Essential
The lengthy name of this winery says it all: The Custodians of Etna's Vines. Led by Mario Paoluzi, this estate works directly with growers in a quasi-négociant, quasi-cooperative model to preserve the ancient-vine heritage of Sicily's great volcano, all while making some of the wildest, most complex and thought-provoking wines in the region.
Established by Paoluzi and Etna superstar Salvo Foti, the genesis of the estate was a revival of I Vigneri, a guild of winemakers established in 1435 in Catania as a means to carry forward the mountain's unique viticulture for future generations. Today, the name "I Vigneri" is more commonly associated with Foti's winery, but there is a broader aim which extends to I Custodi and they work hand-in-hand for the greater goal of preserving old vines and replanting in the most sustainable way possible. While Foti is more famous of the two, Paoluzi is the face of this winery: a gregarious and loquacious Roman whose passion for Etna's ancient viticultural techniques is borderline obsessive.
Much of I Custodi's excellence stems from those very vineyards. The House vineyard in the Contrada Moganazzi lends old-vine concentration and complexity to the Aetneus Rosso; Contrada Puntalazzo's Carricante vines seem to take in the salty air from the nearby Strait of Messina; while in Contrada Feudo di Mezzo, the ancient vines of Vigna Saeculare (some of them dating back 250 years!) serve up the most complex and compelling fruit of all.
What I've noticed both times I've tasted with Mario is the huge degree of vintage variability that he and Foti allow. This is something to embrace, not shy away from. The wild vineyards of Etna are just that: wild. It is so essential to preserve that character by giving the juice leeway in the cellar — a shepherding approach that threads the needle between minimal intervention and controlled guidance.
Solicchiata, Sicily
Grapes: Nerello Mascalese, Carricante
Appellations/Cru: Etna Rosso DOC, Etna Bianco DOC
American Importer: PortoVino
Originally listed: December 2023
Renewed: October 2024


Wines to Seek Out
I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna "Ante" Etna Bianco
This pure Etna Bianco is a blend of multiple plots from ideal Carricante exposures across the eastern flank of the volcano. It boasts a consistently fresh profile, with generous citrus fruits and an expansive perspective sip after sip. It is one of the best introductions to the beauty and complexity of Etna Bianco.
I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna "Imbris" Etna Bianco Superiore
Despite only a handful of vintages under its belt, "Imbris" has already stamped itself as the most towering and emphatic Etna Bianco from the mountain. Made from ungrafted but fairly young vines with an average age of 10 years, Imbris draws its power from Foti’s decision to allow 30 months of aging on the lees. Whereas many of its peers open with subtle flirtations and delicacy, Imbris' greeting is like one of Mario Paoluzi's handshakes: a firm yet jolly throttling of the hand. On the palate, the resulting wine is almost honeyed in its richness, with gingery edges and a deep apple-like character that at times reminds me of aged Alsatian Pinot Gris. But that headiness is kept in check admirably by the volcano’s stony signature of minerality. It is a staggering, versatile wine that begs to be aged for a few years.
I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna "Pistus" Etna Rosso
Like the "Ante" on the bianco-side of things, the entry-level rosso from I Custodi is one of the best introductions to the wonders of Nerello Mascalese and its occasional accomplice, Nerello Cappuccio. Here, the blend is 80/20, which is fairly substantial. You'll notice bright and beautiful cherry tones with superb persistence, a playful juiciness that maintains a stern edge at times, cotton-like tannins and whispers of menthol or mint as well.
I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna "Aetneus" Etna Rosso
The showstopper. With fruit sourced from 100 to 150-year-old vines, Aetneus has patience and power. The nose is so complex and abundant with detail, that you might find yourself closing your eyes just to concentrate and hold on to it. But the most compelling trait is how the wine feels, especially with a handful of years in bottle to settle: there is a velvety texture to this wine that seems to get silkier with each sip, and a controlled, measured amaro trait on the finish that grounds the whole experience as unmistakably Etna.