Cantina Kurtatsch

Why Cantina Kurtatsch is Essential

Because of its vertiginous slopes and lofty heights, the region of Südtirol-Alto Adige in the upper corner of Italy has demanded ingenuity from its people. To cultivate grapes here, growers took to a "smaller is better" approach in how they parceled up the land, which naturally led to numerous families banding together under cooperative models to make it all work. Today, about 70% of the wine made in Alto Adige is done by 12 different cooperatives.

But here is the thing: that ingenuity that the landscape demands? It also seems to foster a sense for precision and meticulousness, which has long been a trait of the Tirolean people, and which has made these cooperatives among the most celebrated in Europe. Of particular note is Cantina Kurtatsch, the cooperative winery for the impossibly scenic village of Cortaccia/Kurtatsch. Owned by 190 wine growing families within the community, of Cortaccia/Kurtatsch, the winery produces 33 different wines, of them 23 are imported into the United States. Their varietal wines at the entry-level are carefully balanced and wonderful representatives of Alto Adige's technical precision. But the "Terroir Line," which includes single-vineyard wines as well as blends, is where this estate excels. Winemaker Erwin Carli has a knack for coaxing subtle details from his wine, yet seemingly fixing them in space where they endure on the palate.

A fun, geeky thing about Cantina Kurtatsch: many of the back labels for single-vineyard wines include an elevation scale to indicate how high in altitude the vineyard is.

Wines to Seek Out

Cantina Kurtatsch Alto Adige/Südtirol Pinot Grigio

This Pinot Grigio punches above its weight class: a $15 wine that tastes like something twice that price. You get the bright pear aromas and core of stone fruit that define the best Pinot Grigio, as well as lovely floral hints and a silky texture. It might not be the best Pinot Grigio in Italy, but best entry-level $15 bottle of Pinot Grigio? I'd say it is a contender.

Cantina Kurtatsch "Kofl" Alto Adige/Südtirol Sauvignon Blanc

Sourced from a spectacular, highly sloped vineyard high in Cortaccia, "Kofl" is a tremendous Sauvignon Blanc. It has finely honed aromas of ripe peach and kiwi, pyrazine pepper pops and delicate flowers, so there is no mistaking this wine for something other than Sauvignon. But its refined palate feel and overall balance speak to that steep slope and the good water drainage, which has prompted the roots to dive deep.

Cantina Kurtatsch "AMOS" Alto Adige/Südtirol Weiss

For me, this is Cantina Kurtatsch's top wine: a shape-shifting, massively aromatic and flavorful white wine that speaks of terroir and craft in equal measure. There's the crispness of Alto Adige, but it's not lost to the 15 months of oak aging. Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Kerner comprise this personality-driven cuvée.

Cantina Kurtatsch "Sonntaler" Alte Reben Alto Adige/Südtirol Vernasch

In recent years, the wine world has embraced Schiava/Vernatsch for its wily, smoky charms, and this version from the Sonntaler vineyard is genuinely one of Alto Adige's top five examples. It boasts remarkable complexity thanks to 60- to 90-year-old vines: pomegranate-like aromas, juniper berry tones, and even a savory streak: one can't help but think of outlandish wine pairings to see where this little red can go. The tannins are there, but they feel microscopic and unobtrusive.

Cantina Kurtatsch "Glen" Alto Adige/Südtirol Pinot Nero Riserva

Alto Adige Pinot Nero can be a mixed bag, with some versions rendering themselves too simply for my tastes. What I like about this single-vineyard wine from "Glen" is that it doesn't have to be complex at first because it is just simply delicious. It is a bright Pinot with fine tannins and lean acidity underscoring its elegance. But as it opens up, earthy tones grow more intense, and the iron-grip fruit profile of the Alps — that pomegranate meets smoke I referred to with "Sonntaler" — emerges, anchoring this wine with a sense of place.