A few years back, I wrote a Wines to Admire column with the headline “Italian Bordeaux Blends Aren’t Interesting. Unless They’re From Friuli.” By and large, I stand by that statement, even if the occasional stellar Bordeaux blend from Toscana has had me questioning my claim. In the end, the overriding theory holds: Friuli simply has a leg up on its Italian compatriots when it comes to the world’s most ubiquitous red wine blending formula. The reason for this primacy lies in the tension found within Friuli’s wines, which seems to balance out the elements more consistently and lend a sense of refinement to the whole affair. You tend to feel the alcohol more in a Super Tuscan and Venetian Bordeaux blend. You will find the fruit to be more stern as well.
The only issue with Friuli’s Bordeaux blends lies in finding them, as they’re a drop-in-the-bucket of the U.S. wine market. But when has that ever stopped us from covering wines on Opening a Bottle? I think such wines are always worth the hunt, especially, in this case, if you have a passion for Bordeaux blends.
While I will always prefer Italy’s indigenous varieties — especially Friuli’s Schioppettino and Pignolo — there is magic to be found in a robust Merlot-Cab blend, especially from the Collio DOC. When I last visited the region — completely set on exploring whites like Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc, not to mention the exceptional blends from those grapes — it was the red wines that surprised me the most. The heady fruit, the secondary sensation of green herbs and peppery spice, the subtlety of oak, and the focused grandeur … there is a time and place for such wines.
About the Collio DOC
Shaped like a crescent that is holding Slovenia’s equally impressive Brda wine region in its palm, the Collio DOC hugs the Italian border and while it may be best known generally for white wines, it ought to simply be known as a hotbed for winemaking talent. When you have this many thoughtful, conscientious producers, it stands to reason that great wines of any hue will follow.
Merlot is the second most widely planted grape variety in Friuli-Venezia Giulia, a holdover from its introduction way back in the 1800s. It is largely concentrated in the alluvial plains which terroir-wise perfectly reflects the Right Bank of Bordeaux. Cabernet Franc then Cabernet Sauvignon follow, but by a distant margin. In the sandstone-marly “ponca” soils of Collio, these grapes, particularly Merlot, find a little more tension, which makes the zone so ideal.
However, producers really are more focused on high-quality Pinot Grigio, Friulano and Sauvignon. Gathering enough samples to justify a full report proved tricky, but thankfully my connections with the Collio DOC came through in a pinch. Even then, some were varietal Merlot, some were Collio Rosso blends. I’ve stipulated percentages below where I could find them.
Joining me for this blind tasting was sommelier and wine educator Scott Thomas, of Denver’s Restaurant Olivia. Scott is also the co-founder of the Grappolo Food & Wine School. “I don’t get to taste this category of wines very often,” he admitted as we got settled, “so I am eager to see how these show.” In the end, we were both in agreement on the top pick, and had some debate on whether Borgo del Tiglio edged out Gradis’ciutta, or the other way around. Happy hunting.
2019 Due del Monte Collio Merlot – TOP WINE
Due del Monte is a relatively new winery on the Slovenian-facing slopes of Mount Quarin (although the high-altitude vineyard plots face the distant Adriatic Sea from high on the mountain). Winemaker Miran Buzinel is originally from Slovenia’s Brda, and he cut his teeth at the legendary Borgo del Tiglio. His business partner, Salvador Merino Lovera, was a mutual acquaintances since they both worked in the Collio wine industry, before they decided to launch the winery in 2018. Their wines are starting to garner international traction and they are now being imported into the U.S.
“This feels like the most ‘Bordeauxesque’ wine here,” Scott noted of the 2019 Due del Monte Collio Merlot (★★★★ 3/4). Indeed, with its delicate “green” notes and the measured toast of its oak, there was a sense of craft that nicely mirrors the hard-to-duplicate, old-school style of Merlot’s birthplace. From start to finish, the wine was beautifully framed and lavishly decorated with intense blackberry- and raspberry-like fruit, herbaceousness, silky acidity and cotton tannins that really only showed on the finish. I find a little “greenness” to be necessary in Merlot, and here in Due del Monte’s Collio Merlot it complemented the board appeal of the fruit to satisfy my inner wine geek. At 14% ABV, it was also more measured. Another way to look at it: balanced opulence.
100% Merlot
2019 Gradis’ciutta Collio Merlot
As noted earlier, the talent in Collio runs deep. Robert Princic of Gradis’ciutta is on that roster, and for good reason: it is in his bones. He has been involved in family winemaking since he was a boy, when he worked under the tutelage of his parents.
His Merlot (★★★★ 3/4) has a towering sense of poise on the nose: it’s not showing off or overly dressed for the occasion, but it sure knows its worth on first contact. Prominent ripeness can be detected in the blackberry-meets-blueberry fruit on the nose, but there is also some tartness akin to pomegranate, which made me wonder — while tasting blind — if a little Refosco had been blended in (answer: it had not. This is 100% Merlot). Still, its shape-shifting qualities had ceaseless charms. Scott praised its “sanguine quality” and how it had elegance but also some muscle. When you reach for Merlot, that’s exactly what you want, isn’t it?
100% Merlot
Imported by: Vineyard Brands
2018 Borgo del Tiglio Collio Rosso Riserva
Borgo del Tiglio’s wines are in high demand and small supply. For this tasting, I had hoped to procure the 100% Merlot called Rosso della Centra, which is only made in top vintages, but instead had to “settle” for the 2018 Rosso Riserva (★★★★ 1/2). This wine incorporates Cabernet Sauvignon, which by most accounts is less suited to the terroir of Collio than Merlot. I was optimistic that in the very capable hands of the Manferrari, that wouldn’t matter, however during the blind tasting this wine stood out for a slightly more purplish hue (no matter) and heightened peppercorn aromatics. Knowing he had one Rosso, I suspected this was it.
“This is more angular and lean,” Scott noted. “It’s sort of stemmy, but in a nice way.” I felt that its silky acidity was getting a bit tripped up on the oaky tannins. Nonetheless, the aromas of purple berries, salty air and pink flowers was heady and hard to turn away from. I revisited this wine a day later to check in on the oakiness, but still felt it was a touch too heavy than I would have liked.
Unspecified percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
Imported by: Volio Imports
2021 Raccaro Collio Merlot
During my last Collio trip in November 2022, Raccaro was a clear standout, particularly for their age-worthy Friulano and this glorious Merlot. For the latter, I remembered its elegance and supreme persistence as hallmarks reminiscent of great Saint-Émilion. This time around (★★★★ 1/4), no other wine showed more horsepower. The fruit tones were more black than red, plums entered the chat, as did a wealth of leathery attributes.
It also appears that with the 2021 vintage, conditions prompted this wine’s alcohol to climb into the stratosphere at 15%. The wine managed to hold on to its lovely acidity and persistence, but many of the balanced elements I adored in the 2020 Merlot were washed over by that extra half degree of alcohol. Splitting hairs? Maybe. I think we owe it to this fantastic wine to revisit it in future vintages, because the promise is awesome.
100% Merlot
Note: These wines were provided as samples by the Consorzio Vini Tutela Collio upon my request. Collio DOC is also a Professional Subscriber to this website. Learn more about our editorial policy.
